Valparaíso

s a city of around 300,000 on the Pacific coast of Central Chile. Frequently referred to as simply Valpo, it is located approximately 120km west of the capital,Santiago de Chile. The city is widely known for its bohemian culture, brightly coloured houses, and beautiful seaside views.

Understand

  • The city’s main economic activities are shipping, the naval dockyards and tourism.
  • Valparaiso was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2003.
  • Visiting Valparaíso has less to do with touring specific sites than it is about roaming the chaotic, hilly streets, and taking in the views and ambiance. There is also an active nightlife and a constantly changing variety of artistic events.

Get in

By plane

Valparaiso does not have its own airport. The closest airport with commercial service is Arturo Merino Benitez International Airport (SCL) near Santiago (known to Chileans as Pudahuel after the local district) 115km from Valparaiso, which offers extensive domestic and international service.

To to get to Valparaíso from Santiago’s airport, you will catch a bus heading to Pajaritos outside of the airport terminal. This will drop you off at the North side of “Pajaritos” a bus/metro station on the outskirts of Santiago, cross to the South side of the Metro station to get to the Bus Platform. From here, buses leave frequently for Valparaiso and other destinations; you may also take the Metro into Santiago. It is generally not necessary to have a bus ticket before arriving at Pajaritos.

Alternately, there are many transfer service companies at the airport, a minibus for max 8 people is around 85.000CLP.

Also, there are many car hire companies at the airport. By car from the airport to Valparaíso is only 1 hour.

By train

The Metro Valparaíso or Merval runs between Valparaiso and Viña del Mar, as well as surrounding communities.[1] It runs from 6.00am to 11.30pm, and is new, clean and fast. Adult fares range from Ch$204 to Ch$1080 depending on the time of day and the distance travelled, but value cards of a minimum of Ch$1200 must be used; single tickets are not sold.

By car

While Valparaíso itself can be a bit of a difficult city in which to drive, the area’s road system is generally of good quality. Note that there are often tolls on Motorways, even within the city of Santiago.

By bus

Buses from a wide variety of destinations within Chile have scheduled service to Valparaíso, in addition to service to the Argentine city of Mendoza. The bus terminal is located close to the National Congress building.

Approximate bus travel times to/from Valparaíso:

  • 1.5 hours: Santiago de Chile (many times every hour). If you come from Santiago, there may be a shortage of bus tickets sometimes, specially in national holidays and summer vacation; in that case take a bus to the nearby city of Quilpue and then take a taxi or the Metro de Valparaíso. Here the schedules: Santiago de Chile Val Paraiso Bus Schedules
  • 7 hours: La Serena (every other hour)
  • 12 hours: Mendoza, Argentina (the road may be closed in winter due to bad weather)

Local buses also ply between Viña del Mar and Valparaíso, taking about 15 minutes each way. Fares range from Ch$350 to Ch$380.

By boat

Some cruise ships dock in Valparaíso, mostly as part of a long South American itinerary. Also possible is a Freighter Cruise from Mexico, taking two weeks and making several stops along the way.

Get around

The city micros are run by Transporte Metropolitano Valparaíso.[2] Exact routes and fares can be found under “Empresas” on the website, and single journeys cost about Ch$250 for local routes and Ch$380 for routes running between El Plano and the hills.

Colectivos are taxis painted in black with yellow roofs that run fixed routes, and are a very common mode of transport between (and within) Valparaíso, Viña del Mar, and other surrounding areas. The cost of the trip, is a little more expensive than the bus or metro and depends upon the distance being traveled following a system of zones. There are also normal taxis that do custom rides, but they are less common and more expensive. This type of taxis often congregate in the area around the Plaza Anibal Pinto.

The recently completed light-rail system, Metro Valparaíso or Merval, runs along the coast. It starts at Valparaíso’s port and heads into Viña del Mar and then along the chain of town heading inland towards the Aconcagua valley. The metro provides quick access to major places of interest, and is only slightly more expensive than taking public buses. Adult fares range from Ch$204 to Ch$1080 depending on the time of day and the distance travelled, but value cards of a minimum of Ch$1200 must be used; single tickets are not sold.

Ascensores, funiculars, ply between El Plan, or the coastal strip, with the cerros, or hillside communitiies. They are for the most part old and creaky, but generally reliable. The fare may sometimes differ between going up and going down, but cost about Ch$300 each way. The ascensors are an unusual mode of transportation in Valparaíso, and offer gorgeous views of the cityscape, port, and the Pacific Ocean.

See

  • Cerros Alegre and Concepción
  • Plaza Echaurren – Serrano Street
  • Cerro Bellavista: residential area & artistic hill with colorful murals
  • Museo a cielo abierto: 20 murals spread throughout cerro Bellavista
  • Ascensor & Cerro Polanco: The only verticle “elevator” ascensor in the city. The hill held the first latin american graffitti festival in October 2012 and now boasts over 70 murals and graffitti pieces
  • Cerro Cordillera
  • Prat Street- Old financial district known as the “Wallstreet Porteño”
  • Paseo 21 de Mayo (Cerro Artilleria)
  • La Matriz Church and surroundings
  • Ascensores (inclines)
  • La Sebastiana, one of three homes of poet Pablo Neruda (cerro Bellavista)
  • Ex Cárcel, a former jail turned cultural center and concert venue
  • Museo Naval y Maritimo (Naval and Maritime Museum), Paseo 21 de Mayo 45, at top of Ascensor Artillería, ☎ 56 32 2437651, [3]. Tuesday to Sunday, 10.00am to 6.00pm. This museum is dedicated to military naval exploits and battles, and puts a large focus on the Chilean victory against Peru and Bolivia in the War of the Pacific.  
  • Museo del Tren Más Lento del Mundo – The world’s slowest train is a battered, rusted, smelly and endlessly charming old train-turned-café parked (or, rather, dumped) on the stretch of the beach closest to Viña. It’s decoration is a showcase of absurdities and the coffee is pretty good at fair prices.

Do

  • Going to Valparaíso and not going on the ascensores (inclines) is like going to Venice and not taking a ride on a Gondola, only that the ascensores cost as little as 300 Chilean Pesos (around 55 US cents). They are also of practical use as they help many local people get to the higher parts of town, saving them from having to walk otherwise long and steep pedestrian routes.

    During the last week in the year, Valparaíso holds an annual carnival that everyone should experience at least once in their lives. Each year the festival centers around a different country, from which performers and artists are invited to come and represent their culture and their work in theater, music, and the performance arts. Most activities are free and are held outdoors. The celebration culminates with a New Year firework display that within five of the most beautiful in the planet. Oops, but get ready in time because the city’s population triples on those dates. I recommend visiting the Mirador del Cerro Artilleria, panoramic view of the city of Vina del Mar, Reñaca, Con Con and more … It reaches through the “lift” Artilleria, in operation since 1893 (ask for Customs plaza area), its current value is 300 Chilean pesos, on the first floor is the Mirador “Walk May 21,” (delivered to the community in the year 1911) in which impossible not to enjoy the restaurant “Calaufquen”, typical dishes of fresh seafood, with a fair value or restuarant cafe postal, 20 metres up the hill – sit outside on the deck (up a flight of stairs), best fish in town and medium priced. There is also a large a Craft Fair in which they sell winter clothing made from alpaca(ponchos, Ruan, scarves, socks, gloves, wool hats), souvenir of the most varied models and prices, up figures and jewelry from lapis lazuli (blue stone semi-precious which is only found in Chile and Afghanistan), by price and quality of the stone, I recommend the last local – Renee is the owner. Also visit the Naval Museum “(500 Chilean pesos).

    A good half-day trip is going to the dunes of Concón. On clear days you can see the dunes across the bay from Valparaíso and it’s just a half-hour busride on any micro going to Reñaca. The dunes are just big enough that you can forget that a world outside of this micro desert exists, and they offer great views of the pacific sunset.

    • The German Pirate (myvalparaiso.cl), [4]. Amazing tour by a German man who’s lived in Valparaiso for years. He seems to know everything and everyone about the place. He speaks Spanish, English and German. Discounts for groups. You’re unlikely to find a more immersive tour of Valparaiso.  
    • Tours 4 Tips (http://www.tours4tips.com), Plaza Sotomayor, ☎ 56 322 -3148700, [5]. Every Day at 10am and 3pm. Award winning walking tours that leave from Valparaiso’s main square Plaza Sotomayor every day at 10 am and 3pm. The guides are dressed like Waldo/Wally from the children’s book “Where’s Waldo /Wally,” and give great tours on the basis of tips. The tour takes you around the port, the historic hills, and includes public transportation and many surprises en route. A must do for those interested in the graffiti, history, architecture, culture and gastronomy of Valparaiso.
    • Chilean Cuisine Cooking Classes [www.cookingclasseschile.cl] includes a full cooking class and market tour for ingredients with the chef. In english, german or spanish. Great fun and recommended.

Learn

The universities of Valparaiso are:

  • ‘University Federico Santamaria’ [6]
  • ‘University of Valparaíso’ [7]
  • ‘University of Playa Ancha’ [8]
  • ‘Pontifical Catholic University of Valparaíso’[9]

Many international students study at the Catholic University and the University of Valparaíso.

Sleep

Budget

There are many hostels around the Cerro Concepcion.

  • Hostel Casa Verde Limón [15] Cumming 198, (56) (32) 2121699, nice living room where you can meet people, very helpful staff, dorms from $7500
  • Angel Hostal [16] Cumming 160 Cerro Carcel, (56)(32) 2126940. Dorm room 7000 per person. Double room 8000 per person, matrimonial and single beds. Good breakfast, decent rooms, friendly helpful staff, good place to meet people, free internet and some tickets to nightlife bohemian experience.
  • Hostal Casa Valparaiso Budget hostal in the heart of Cerro Concepcion,friendly owners and young social atmosphere.
  • Hostel Mítico [17] Cumming 190, (56) (32) 3201385, has both dorms and private rooms. Very nice staff. Otherwise basic and overpriced hostel. Some rooms have bedbugs. Dorms from $9000 (Feb 2016), basic breakfast included. Better options around.

Mid-range

  • HOSTAL CERRO ALEGRE, Cerro Alegre, Urriola 562, Valparaiso, Chile. Tel.+56 32 3270374, emailto : info@hostalcerroalegre.com, [18]. Cerro Alegre Hostel Valparaiso is located on Cerro Alegre hill, the most historical and central area of Valparaiso, within walking distance of all major attractions and restaurants in the area. This beautifully renovated house takes hostel art to a whole new level. Each room has been meticulously decorated by local artists. All of them will provide our guests with supreme comfort and security during their stay.
  • APARTMENTS Valparaiso Experience, Pasaje Santa Margarita, Cerro BELLAVISTA, Valparaíso, Chile (Strategic central location on residential and artistic hill Bellavista, boasting great views over The Pacific ocean and coastline), ☎ (+56 9) 88308764, [19]. Valparaiso Experience offers fully furnished ocean view apartments on residential cerro (hill) Bellavista. A new building with 4 comfortable luxury ECCO duplex apartments (4 persons per unit), each provided with solar panels, double glazing windows, central heating, 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, full kitchen, bright living room, ample deck terraces with panoramic ocean views. A remodelled historic building with 3 apartments: Queen Mary Duplex – 4 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, ample living room and kitchen and 2 large sun deck terraces with panoramic views – sleeps 8 persons. Pablo Neruda Apartment with 3 bedrooms, 1 bathroom, living room, kitchen, patio with bbc, sleeps 5-6. Bellavista Cottage – 2 bedrooms, 1 bathroom, kitchen, living room and garden with deck terrace and a couple of generous peach trees. 
  • The Mirador Bed and Breakfast, 251 Levarte, [20]. A very comfortable hospedaje in the Playa Ancha sector of the city, with several rooms, small apartments, and a balcony with a great view of the city and port. Internet and Wi-Fi. A nice kitchen to use. Parking. Marisol, the owner, is wonderful and very helpful. 
  • The Yellow House, Capitán Muñoz Gamero 91, Cerro Artillería, Valparaíso, Chile (The Yellow House is easily reached by using the Ascensor Artilleria, on foot, by public transport or by car.), ☎ (56) 32 2339435, [21]. The Yellow House has 7 comfortable guest rooms. Most rooms as well as the homes two galleries, living and dining areas offer wonderful views of the port and harbour and on a clear day extend as far as the AndesMountains separating Chile and Argentina. The Yellow House also has a book exchange, WiFi, cable TV and a selection of board games. The house was built in the late 1800s and has been fully restored. The “Ocean View” room, as the name indicates, has the best view and is really worth it. 
  • Residencia en El Cerro, Pasaje Pierre Lotti 51, Conceptione, Valparaíso, Chile (Pierre Lotti 51 is easily reached by using the Ascensor Concepcion.). For absolute quietness, except for the creaking floors, try Residencia en El Cerro, Pasaje Pierre Lotti 51. Next door at 43 there is also accommodation. This Hostal is on an alley where no traffic get and the gardens add a little attractive colour. A twin room costs 30,000 a night. Breakfast is just OK with coffee/tea, bread, butter and jam. The place is in its original 1880`s decor – maybe. Wi-fi, TV.  edit
  • ALLEGRETTO BED & BREAKFAST, Lautaro Rosas 540, Cerro Alegre, Valparaiso, Chile. Tel. +56 32 296 8517, emailto : info@allegretto.cl, [22]. Allegretto Bed & Breakfast is a cosy, English-owned hostal, mostly targeting travelling couples and families, with some space for single travelers too in shared rooms. Prices are very reasonable for the quality of the rooms and the location, which is absolutely ideal. Additionally the living room has a great jukebox stacked with old rock and roll records and there is a football table.

Consulates